Starched turn-down collar



May 23, 1933. w. GAA

STARCHED TURN-DOWN COLLAR Filed May 11, 1931 l atented May 23, 1933 UNITED STATES ATENT ries WALTER GAA, F BIELEFELD, GERMANY, ASSIGNOR TO GAA-KOMMANDITGESELL- SCHAF'I", 0F BIELEFELD, GERMANY 1 STARGHED TURN-DOW'N COLLAR Application filed May 11, 1931, Serial No. 536,591, and'ln Germany April 27, 1929.

This invention relates to a starched turndown collar of the type almost exclusively worn by men at the present time. Such collars are composed of two parts, of the so- 5 called inner and outer collar, of which the inner collar is fixed to the collar of the shirt by means of two studs, whereas the outer portion serves to cover the necktie wound around the inner collar with the exception of the knot visible in front and the ends hanging therefrom.

The collars hitherto worn are, as a rule, out in such a manner that both in the outer collar as also in the inner collar the threads of the cloth run as a rule parallel or at right angles to the longitudinal direction of the collar. The result of this is that neither the inner nor the outer collar is capable of stretching in longitudinal direction and that,

when the collar is ironed ready for use the outer collar lies almost directly on the inner collar. Owing to this fact, as is generally known, it is extremely difficult, especially with freshly ironed collars to bring the necktie into the proper position by pulling backwards and forwards. Consequently it is necessary if the necktie sticks tightly between the outer and the inner collar to either allow the necktie to remain crooked or to use such force that the strength of the necktie sufiers.

These disadvantages inherent to the known turn-down collars are overcome according to the invention and a collar is produced in V which the outer collar does not lie directly on the inner collar, but in every case at a certain distance therefrom so that the middle portion of the necktie, surrounding the neck, can be easily pulled backwards and forwards between the outer and the inner collars for the purpose of properly tying the ends of the necktie. For this purpose the outer collar is according to the invention cut in such a manner that the threads in its cloth layers extend diagonally to the longitudinal direction of the collar. Owing to this cutting the outer collar is capable of considerable expansion which automatically effects its stretching during the ironing of the collar so that, even if a skilled ironer irons the collar, the outer collar always remains at a sufficiently great distance from the inner collar when the collar is ironed ready for use, in order to be able to bring the necktie into the position necessary for obtaining a good knot by pulling backwards and forwards. In ironing the collar however, an unskilled ironer can under circumstances expand the outer collar to .such an extent that this subsequently stands too far away from the inher collar and then has an ugly and slovenly appearance. In order to avoid this possibility and to limit the expansibility of the outer collar to a certain extent, two or more pieces of non-expansible band strips are sewn, according to a further feature of the invention, in the lower edge of the diagonally pointed outer collar, the ends of these strips being a more or less great distance apart. The sewing of these band strips into the edge of I the outer collar results in that at the points which they occupy the possibility of expansion of the outer collar is again removed and limited to the remaining gaps between the ends of the band strips. As however the possibility of expansion is evidently always limited only to short stretches of the collar, a comparativelyv unskilled ironer can never stretch the outer collar to such an extent that the good fitting of the collar suffers, that the outer collar stands too far away from the inner collar and consequently does not look nice.

An embodiment of the invention is illustrated by way of example in the accompanying drawing in which:

Fig. 1 shows a View of a collar folded open.

Fig. 2 is a cross section of a turn-down collar ready for use taken on line II of Fig. 1.

In the drawing 1 represents the inner collar and 2 the outer collar, both of which have the same shape as in an ordinary collar. Contrary to an ordinary collar however merely the inner collar is cut in the straight of the cloth, i. e. in such a manner that the threads of the cloth extend parallel or at right angles 95 to the longitudinal. direction of the collar. All the layers of the outer collar 2 are however cut on the diagonal of the cloth, so that all its threads form an angle of about with the longitudinal axis of the collar. As the woven material, as is known, is only stretchable in diagonal direction, the upper collar during the stretching stretches so that, when the collar is ironed ready for use, it is situated at a distance from the inner collar 1, which, owing to the normal position of the threads, in any case accurately retains its prescribed length, which distance is necessary for pulling the necktie backwards and forwards. In the upper edge of the collar 2 two or more pieces 3 of a flat, non-expansible band are invisibly sewn in the manner shown in the drawing, between the ends of these bands one or more gaps 4 are left free, these gaps consequently retain their expansibility, whereas the ex pansibility of the outer collar which previously existed is removed on the sections on which the band strips are sewn in the edge of the collar. The manufacturer of this collar can regulate as required the stretchability of the outer collar by making the gaps 4 larger or smaller and adapt same to the requirements of the different sizes of collars, especially as as regards height and shape. In any case a turn-down collar so constructed otters ample space for pulling the necktie backwards and forwards between the outer and the inner collar Without the outer collar however standing appreciably away from the inner collar and consequently having an ugly appearance.

I claim A starched turn-down collar, comprising in combination with the outer fold of the collar arranged on the bias and the band part of the collar arranged on the straight of the goods, several sections of non-stretchable band in the lower edge of said outer fold of the collar arranged lengthwise of the collar and spaced apart forming gaps between them to regulate the stretching of the outer fold of the collar when ironing.

In testimony whereof I afiiX my signature.

WALTER GAA. 

